For drift fishing I still use a traditional Pike bung. Several years ago I bought a selection of loaded Pike floats, none of which I have ever used. They seem to have no proper use in my pike fishing setup. Plus a few drilled bullets to slide on the line to act as a weight for drifting inline floats.
Drilled bullets can also come in handy for wobbling or twitching. I also like to carry some swan shots, beads and float stops. Being much weaker than both the main line and trace, I use 6lb monofilament for making a weak link to the casting weight. If the weight gets snagged while playing a fish, the link breaks leaving the weight safely behind.
Ideal for Paternoster and running trace rigs. Forceps and long nose pliers are used to unhook the Pike. Side cutters to cut the hooks or trace wire when there is no other option. I use a 36 inch landing net that has a spreader block. The arms of the net are not fixed, they pull out of the spreader block making it much easier to move and weigh the fish once landed.
I use an electronic bite indicator in conjunction with a monkey climber. The bite indicator is simple and cheap, it just makes a noise, singing and dancing not required. The monkey climber is an old fashioned visual indicator popular in the last century. I tend to use frozen dead baits, leaving them in the freezer until the last minute. They will often still be frozen at the water, ideal for a good hook hold.
The knife is for cutting and puncturing the bait. However, care must be taken to ensure that the lead is not attached in such a way that it cannot be dislodged from the rig should the baited trace break off from the line. To avoid losing rigs, and hooked fish, always use sensible strong main line — minimum of 15lb mono, or 30lb braid for bait fishing and 50lb braid for lure fishing.
ANY rig, however good, is potentially a death rig if it is left unattended, or fished without good bite indication. There are other rigs and items of tackle which can prove fatal to pike:.
Safe Pike Rigs Fixed lead rigs have become common in carp fishing and other circles in recent years, and their use is now widespread in pike fishing, too.
Do not attach bomb weights directly to trace swivels using snap links. Use an intermediate link of weak nylon. Needle-nose pliers are a must; jaw spreaders can come in handy. Pinch down the barbs of your lures to expedite extractions. White, yellow, and chartreuse are great pike lure colors, probably because they resemble the belly of a struggling food fish. In early spring, before weed growth becomes a factor, focus on covering water.
The bigger spinners are a top choice here because the weight lets you cast them farther and the blades throw more flash. Retrieve the spinner steadily, just fast enough to keep it off the bottom.
Start by steadily and slowly reeling, just fast enough to keep the spoon wobbling. Spoons are particularly effective along drop offs because you can precisely control the depth.
Begin with a steady retrieve. Early in the season, use a shallow runner. As waters warm up, go to a crank bai tor a soft-plastic swimbait that runs in the foot range. Draw a spinnerbait past sprouting weeds and stop the retrieve for a three count just as the bait approaches a possible hideout. Add a twist-tail or rubber-worm trailer for action and color contrast. Models abound. If I had to use only one pike lure, it would be a white spinnerbait with a trailer.
If the water is a tall off-color, try a bait with a chartreuse skirt. As the temperature in the shallows reaches 60 degrees, pike begin to set up shop along 6- to foot drop-offs. These are best fished with a jig in full, 2-to 3-foot hops.
Pike often take the jig as it drops; the strike may feel like a nibble or a perch bite.
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