The starter board is just a very straight, horizontal board used to hold the first course in place and arrange the sequence of the shingles. Since each shingle is often tapered, the starter strip is usually cut on site, with a small bevel. This bevel causes the shingles to flare out on this first course, which improves the look and keeps rainwater away from the structure.
Cedar shingles are installed just like a roof shingle, from the bottom up. Just like a shingle, the first course is a starter course and will usually be entirely covered by overlapping it with another course. This is the course that will be seen when the project is finished. This second layer is installed to cover the joints of the first layer, preventing water from penetrating the joint between the shingles.
Most installers will begin the first-course using full-size, or half-size shingle and finish the course completely. Then, the first shingle of the second layer is just the opposite. This guarantees that no two joints will overlap vertically, and goes a long way in preventing future water damage. Cedar shingles are often installed by hand, as the forces imparted by pneumatic tools can easily split the shingle and make it unusable.
Some cedar species even require drilling pilot holes before installing the fasteners. Cedar shingles must always be installed with corrosion and moisture resistant fasteners, which are usually galvanized finish nails. The second course of cedar shingles will require a guide to keep them straight and consistent. To do this, most pros will remove the starter board and reattach it above to align the second course of shakes. The second course will be installed exactly like the first, however, the second course will need the reveal markings.
To do this, the pros will also use another special tool called a storyboard, or sometimes called a story pole. A story pole is another straight board, but with course markings all along one edge, indicating the reveal of each course. This is often made by the installer and is specific to the project because the reveal can change from job to job. Along this story pole will be a series of marks indicating the exact reveal required by the plans. These marks are then transferred to the wall, where chalk lines are then struck.
Many professionals will use this starter board and story pole over and over, instead of striking chalk lines as the chalk may permanently stain the wood.
Generally speaking, the remaining courses will be installed in the same way as the others. Exceptions will typically be where cedar shingles meet an obstacle and must be trimmed or notched to fit. Professionals avoid notching cedar shingles as much as possible because they tend to crack and split. Although not all notching can be avoided, laying out the project carefully can often reduce the amount of notching required.
As mentioned earlier, cedar shingles can be left to weather, or they can be sealed. In almost every situation, sealing is a smart move because it will greatly extend the life of the shingles.
To get the most return on investment from a cedar shingle installation, some homeowners simply seal the wood, allowing the natural color to come through. This was the most popular finishing technique during most of the s and s and could be accomplished with exterior grade polyurethane, shellac, or deck sealers.
As one might guess, modern sealers usually do the best job, last the longest, and require less clean-up hassles. These products are soaked into the wood fibers, creating a thick layer of protection, especially with multiple coats.
This material is usually the choice of homeowners who are more concerned with the appearance of their home, rather than practical cost considerations.
Cedar shingles and shakes provide a rustic beauty for a home. While they are usually available in wood-tones, you can also get them in other colors such as yellow. In some cases they are stained with a yellow tone, or simply painted. If they are well maintained, cedar shingles can last for years.
Without a layer of insulation, cedar shakes and shingles do provide more insulation capabilities than the other forms of siding.
This can ease your utility bills. One of the reasons for this is that they are a low-density product that makes them a natural insulator. If installed correctly, cedar shingles will be very durable, lasting over 25 years. In addition, they can withstand harsh climates such as salty air on the coast and hurricane-force winds.
Most cedar shakes are rated for mph winds. Cedar also has a natural resistance to moisture and bugs. The tannin in the wood sheds water and discourages bugs such as termites and carpenter ants. Many customers prefer to leave their cedar shingles in their natural state. The natural wood color is red, amber, or brown.
It is beautiful and weathers out to a silvery gray. However, since cedar does not have any resin in it, it can be stained with great success. It even accepts paint, unlike yellow pine that stains through even the thickest paint. To maintain the integrity of cedar shingles and shakes they need to be cleaned and stained regularly. You can maintain the natural appearance this way and forgo the silver gray weathering.
To keep the rich wood tones this maintenance needs to be performed as often as every 3 years. If you live in mild weather conditions, you may be able to go 6 years without maintenance. While cedar is naturally resistant to rot and mold, you may need to have it treated if you live in a humid climate.
If your home is in a humid area you may want fungicide applied when you have your maintenance done. Professional installation is crucial for cedar shingles. If they are not installed right, they may warp, bow, cup, or split. They will also fade if they are not maintained. Finally, some insurance providers charge more for policies on homes with cedar shakes and shingles. When not properly maintained, cedar can be a fire hazard. Check with your insurance agency before you take the plunge.
You can stain or paint cedar shakes. Clear stains will retain the natural tones of the wood while protecting it from weathering and UV rays. Treatment also helps to make the shakes fire resistant. Make sure you pick a wood material, stain, and things like that which will complement the new shingle sidings. Take the story pole to layout the courses which will help you to not use narrow pieces below or above the doors and windows.
In order to get the right alignment, you can lower or raise the bottom course. Or you can use the swing stick method as well to gain a layout that is consistent. And then you would want to mark all the layouts around the home. Now attach the corner trip pieces. It will be able to hold up many layers so that the trim becomes thick.
Attach the very first starter course piece at the corner, make sure it runs past the corner by around 1-inch. Get the help of a small level to hold the course plumb and attach two nails or staples, make sure they are attached strongly. For the starter course, you can use low-grade shingles which cost less. Keep installing courses on the corners and use a utility knife to cut down the edges. And then you would want to do a little touch-up with shingle to get a smoother edge. Make sure the thick edges of a shake cover the nails at shakes below for the best appearance of the siding.
Work from a portable scaffold to install the uppermost rows at the wall. Measure a shake to length for the top row, and score it several times across the face with the knife, then snap off the unused portion. Remove any exterior light fixtures and address numbers before installing the shakes at a sided wall. Cut out a portion of the the shakes that install at a light fixture box with a jigsaw. Apply a generous amount of clear silicone sealant at the base of the fixture before reinstalling it.
According to Quick Trim System , you can also stagger vinyl cedar shake siding. For wainscot, snap a chalk line on the wall from end to end at the desired height of the wainscot. Use the line as a guide to cut the shakes at the uppermost row.
0コメント